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FOUR SEASONS BREEZE | OCTOBER 2021 11 only contribution from the Afghans was the placing of rocks set in the center of the road at numerous sections to stop overtaking. The most spectacular part of this journey was the Kabul Gorge with its magnificent scenery, twisting hair-pin bends, and dizzy chasms. At this point I can point out the road was built in 1879 by the British. Leaving the border customs post of Afghanistan, we drove a couple of miles to enter Pakistan and were greeted with an abundance of signs informing us to now drive on the left. Entry to the Khyber Pass is always guarded by a detachment of the Khyber rifles, and the pass always closes at dusk due to the lawless tribal inhabitants. The Pass is Pakistan's main defense system and we were amazed to see so many military installations such as tank traps, gun emplacements, and fortresses. After a comfortable night in the student hostel of the University of Peshawar sleeping on wicker beds (Charpoys), we pushed on towards Murree Hills, a hill station where rich British families spent time away from the hot summer of New Delhi. Murree Hills has an altitude of about 8,000 feet and you need to break through clouds to reach the summit. Unfortunately, the Durham coach was delayed due to a parking incident causing one of the front wheels to hang precariously over an eight-foot-deep ditch. Fortunately, this occurred in the near vicinity of a road repair depot and the following morning we were hauled back onto the road. Relations between Pakistan and India has always been "unfriendly" therefore following the British Foreign Offices advice given prior to this journey, we avoided any comment concerning their present feuds. The border crossing in effect felt like a war zone, we were not allowed to venture outside of the coach and both parties made sure we did not use our cameras. Our arrival in New Delhi occurred on day 40 and we immediately made ourselves at home within the Rabindra Rangshala, a large camping area with an enormous amphitheatre. Comex's arrival made the front page of every Delhi newspaper and that evening each coach was briefed on the program covering the following week. The following morning when we were spruced up and the coaches washed, we attended an official welcoming reception within the amphitheatre, then after a buffet-type lunch, we set off on a three- hour ceremonial drive around the city. A stop was made at Mahatma Gandhi's tomb where a wreath of roses and jasmine was laid then onto the Red Fort and several public buildings. Traffic came to a halt as 20 sparkling coaches — complete with British and Indian pennants fluttering proudly in the warm Delhi breeze — passed by. The following day all 20 coaches dispersed to various locations, we headed south to Aurangabad University calling in on Agra (Taj Mahal) and the Ellora Caves. Our cultural performance in front of the students was a resounding success, however I felt they were just being polite. The performances by our hosts were genuinely amazing and our three-day visit was memorable. We returned to New Delhi in order to participate in the "First Commonwealth Youth Festival" but first we again washed our coaches, dressed in our finest clothes and traveled in convoy to the Presidential Palace to be guests at a garden party hosted by the Indian President V. V. Giri. After numerous farewells our coaches were finally lined up in convoy and a final ceremonial drive was made for the benefit of the media through the India Gate and we silently headed home. The journey home was as eventful and as exhilarating as the outbound section, we all had learned from experience and were able to handle all difficulties and obstacles much more efficiently, but those are stories for another time.

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