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By Elizabeth Westbrook We were excited to see Victoria Falls after reading the adventures of David Livingstone on the Zambezi River in the 1850s. He was the first European explorer to see "the smoke that thunders" which he named Victoria Falls after Queen Victoria. Zambia honored him by naming an airport and a city after him. After landing in Lusaka, Zambia, we took a short flight to Livingstone. Small commercial airlines traverse most of the tourist destinations and at 8,000 feet we saw patches of farmlands and listened to the hum of the plane. We were picked up and driven through the town of Livingstone to our first camp, the Waterberry Lodge. The Lodge was located on the banks of the Zambezi River, upstream from the Victoria Falls. Across the water was Zambezi National Park of Zimbabwe. It was an unexpected pleasure to find our thatched cottage just feet away from the shore. We had been taking our pills for malaria but the insect spray for our skin and the room provided by The Lodge, along with the mosquito net over the bed, kept the pests away. Our alfresco dining room faced the river so we were continuously serenaded by the hippos. The meals were terrific and we felt so fortunate when we picnicked on a small island, complete with a bar, and watched giraffes while we ate. Because of low water, a guide accompanied us through the gauntlet of passing immigration from Zambia to Zimbabwe. Having the correct documentation cost us $100 in cash. Another $100 (they accepted credit cards) for our entrance fee to the Victoria Falls National Park. It was worth it! Above the Zambezi River between Zambia and Zambezi, we walked across the Victoria Falls Bridge. The sunrise and sunset safaris on a guided boat were peaceful and quiet. Except for the hippos. Walking in the dark always required security. On our final evening, I finally saw the hippo I heard munching near our cottage when the security found it with his flashlight. The hippo turned to look and seemed to say, "Okay, I'm going." That was a thrill! Our second camp was from the Rovos Rail (we opted for the three nights) that allowed us to experience a safari straight from the train on the Hwange National Park of Zimbabwe. The meals were excellent but the noise in our suite prevented a good night's sleep. Our train also went through a gauntlet of procedures when we crossed to South Africa. Passing by small farms and towns was enlightening. The children's enthusiastic waves and smiles were infectious. You can't help but wave back. Upon leaving the train station, our driver took us to The Peech Hotel in Melrose for a relaxing evening (finally, a good night's sleep) to prepare for our last camp. We took off from Johannesburg to Skukuza Airport (so small, one plane at a time) and traveled on a dirt road until we reached the Sabi Sands Game Reserve. This was a special location because it bordered the land with Kruger National Park and the animals were free to roam. Our lodging faced a watering hole that was visited by animals — a pleasure to just sit and observe. You have to be aware of your surroundings because you never know if a family of elephants was passing by or if some sneaky monkeys spotted an open door. This was an all-inclusive resort that provided two safaris per day. Because it's a private reserve, the vehicles were allowed to go off-roading. Riding over plants, hilly terrain, and soft creek sand was exhilarating! The proximity of the wild animals was attainable by our expert guides who had a goal to showcase the "Big Five" (lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros, and buffalo). One final stop. We flew from Skukuza to Cape Town. We stayed in a contemporary guesthouse overlooking the Atlantic in Camps Bay. It was a walking distance to trendy restaurants which we took advantage of, sampling springbok (a small gazelle, the national animal of South Africa) and ostrich. They were delicious! There were three highlights from this location. The Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve perched on the edge of False Bay — where you can view the end of the continent and watched below the crashing waves whitened by winds unhindered from the Antarctic. Boulders Beach had a large colony of jackass penguins and if you're able to withstand the cold wind and sand, you can watch them swim up the beach. Finally, the Kirstenboch Botanical Gardens on the side of Table Mountain was home to over 7,000 plant species and a favorite venue for evening concerts. Throughout this trip in Africa, we donated our clothes which left plenty of room for artisanal fabrics and handmade crafts. We met numerous travelers who come back again and again. For us, this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip that we will cherish. 16 FOUR SEASONS BREEZE | JULY 2025 TRAVEL FEATURE Kirstenboch Botanical Gardens Africa Africa Out of

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